Into the Freezer

Final note

2008-03-05T08:18:00.000-08:00

Friday 29 February 2008

Now I am in Cape Town waiting to travel back home. Like Mr. Ben I got to keep a memento from the experience: my pink neck wrap. I'll wear it as often as possible, so if you ever see a fat bloke wearing a pink neck wrap this summer it's probably me.

It strikes me, now that I am no longer in the direct service of BAS, just how just how much you are shielded from the stresses of normal life (as well as being shielded from the hostilities of Antarctica). Slowly the realisation of this is returning to me: Back in the real world I am surrounded by people, traffic, congestion, smoke, noise and adverts. Other worries start to become more apparent too such as the state of my overdraft, bills, the mortgage, and where my next chocolate bar is coming from.

The Antarctic is a most fantastic place and Halley is just incredible. It is not flat: The site undulates, rises and falls, the terrain is like a solid fluid, changing all the time. The landscape is always reshaping itself, and claims back its territory from man at frightening speed. It is not white: It changes colour every hour of the day every day of the year. There is a never-to-be-repeated photographic moment happening all the time. The sun plays tricks with the snow scape and the buildings that hover above it to produce a myriad of colours and moods.

Everyone, even the most well seasoned Antarctic visitors are alert to the changes around them, never tired of what they see and never tired of trying to capture it on film. I feel very privileged to be here and very privileged to be here with BAS. The Antarctic is a fierce and unforgiving place. It really is a hostile environment. Stray outside too long, in the wrong conditions and you can be in very serious trouble. Travelling with BAS and you feel as safe as you could ever be. This is a far cry from the days of early exploration where humans had to brave the Antarctic elements without any additional human support.

Something that sticks in my mind in particular is Aspley Cherry-Garrard’s description, at the point of extreme exhaustion, starvation, hypothermia and near death is how much he missed peaches in syrup. Our journey has not nearly been as hard as this, and there are lots of peaches in syrup on the base, out on the servery counter every day for breakfast lunch and dinner. There are pears too and the rice pudding is not to be missed! BAS provide for everything – well almost everything.

Unfortunately, what they can’t replace, and what I have been missing for the past three months is a Greggs cheese pasty. Please send your spare Greggs cheese pasties, in any condition, to:

The Greggs Cheese Pasty Appeal
Hugh Broughton Architects
41A Beavor Lane
London W6 9BL

(or a sticky bun will do)

Thanks

Phil

The journey back

2008-03-05T08:16:00.001-08:00

Wednesday 27 February 2008

The journey back started with a very early start. At 3.45 am we checked into the Laws dining room and at 5 am we were loaded onto a sledge and taken to the air field where a plane was waiting for us on the Halley blue-ice runway.

As we left the base, we all took a final look back. At the plane, there was not much time spent hanging around before we were away and heading east towards Novo. It was very different to any other plane I have been on. The crew wear overalls covered in grease and dirt, the plane bounces around in the air like Flash Gordon's rocket ship, there is lots of noise and vibration, and there is a very strong smell of AVTUR fuel, which at first I found worrying, but later realised was very normal.

There was no entertainment on the plane and we were all crammed in like sardines. The only thing to do was to catch up on some sleep until the next stop, but I'm not sure if some towards the back had not passed out from the fumes.

We had to land for refueling after a couple of hours, which is where three drums of fuel were rolled over to the plane and manually hand-pumped into the tanks, hence the smell. We had landed at Sanae IV, the South African Antarctic base. There were two huge bonuses here: Firstly, for the first time, we were standing on the Antarctic continent! Secondly, there was a slim chance of seeing the Sanae building. I knew about this stop in advance but was not sure how far the base would be from the runway, if we would be able to see it, or if there would be an opportunity to go to visit the building.

As it happened there was a sledge ready to take anyone with bladder-shyness to the base for a toilet stop. I wasn't going to hang around and Simon Gill and I jumped on the back before Morgan (one of the SA scientists) drove us up (at approx 120 km/h).

I know it sounds a bit silly but this was one of the real highlights of the trip. I never expected to be here and it was a complete surprise to be given the opportunity to see it. After our pit stop, we asked Morgan if we could have a quick look down the corridor, and he was happy to show us as much of the base as we could see in the few short minutes we had. We literally ran around the place to see as much as possible. I'm surprised any photos came out in focus.

(Here is the games room, sporting all the important flags of the world - Go Bulle!!!)

After our whirl-wind tour it was back on the plane for another two hour flight to Novo and the Aleutian which would be taking us back to Cape Town. At Novo we literally jumped out the plane, threw all the bags and ourselves onto a sledge and then jumped into the big plane, as we were told it was taking off inside 20 minutes of our arrival.

The inside was again more like a military flight than a commercial one. It has always been reported as a bit of a white knuckle ride with lots more noise and vibration. We were all given a Russian ham sandwich to keep us occupied on the six hour flight to Cape Town. I think I chewed on mine for 90 minutes before throwing the other half in the bin.

(Simon still smiling - he must have had this expression for at least a week)

Given the power-point safety presentation we were shown in Russian, the condition of the plane and the food, I felt safer keeping my hard hat on my head throughout the flight back.

('The Right Stuff' exit to passport control)

And then, all of a sudden, we were back in Cape Town, at what seemed like lightening speed. What was a two week outward journey on the Shackleton travelling at an average of 10 knots, was replaced by a return journey completed in little over twelve hours by plane!

It was now about 10.30pm local time (Halley is 5 hours behind Cape Town)

Postcards from the edge...of the Brunt Ice Shelf III

2008-03-05T08:15:00.000-08:00

Hiya Joyce!!!

See you soon

(about 6 O'clock-ish)

LoL

P

XXX

Last day at Halley

2008-03-05T06:22:00.000-08:00

Tuesday 26 February 2008
-14.5 deg C
Wind: 142 deg S at 2.7 knts

Today is my last full day at Halley and I have been running around trying to tie up all my loose ends of work and see as much of the remaining areas at Halley as I could before departing. I have also been keeping a running action list of tasks I have to complete for work during my stay, and was on a mission to close as many as I could. Unfortunately, there is a thing called ‘the Halley condition’ here which means that you just have to take your time and chip away at your tasks bit by bit. The cold affects every one and every thing. Electrical equipment slows down, batteries to cameras and laptops have a shorter life span and humans become forgetful. Combined with the fact that the landscape creeps up on you and covers everything with snow, which needs constant sorting out, every thing at Halley takes longer than it would elsewhere. (This is my official excuse for use in the office).

One of the things I wanted to do was to get a photographic record of the Laws building – the living and working centre of Halley V. After going through the plant rooms, kitchen, stores, dining room, etc, I asked if I could see a pit room. This was the highlight for me as it was the most personal human space within Halley and an area where we had invested much time and consideration designing for Halley VI. I asked Nicola (Halley admin assistant) and I was glad to find this was not a problem; there was an empty room I could see as one BAS member was on a field trip and had left her room tidy and ready either for her return or for anyone else to use in the meantime. At the room Nicola checked first that there was no one sleeping, and that it was tidy and respectable enough to be photographed. I think my preconceptions led my eyes when I first walked in. It was a small room, a bit Hostel / student - like, but looked comfortable and homely with pictures on the walls of Halley, penguins and Antarctica. On the desk were books on Edwardian adventures in Antarctica, a coffee cup and note book. It looked perfect, just as we had imagined it in the office during the design stage for Halley VI, and I started taking lots of pictures. It must have been another case of the cold making me slow, but by the time I got to the skirting detail, I realised that I’d taken about 20 shots of dirty clothes, knickers and bras. When I looked over the camera I saw they were everywhere – on the bed, on the floor, on the desk, on the chair, hanging out of the wardrobe – in every single shot. I sometimes think that Architectural design involves at least 30% human psychology, but we certainly didn’t include for this in our visualisations for Halley VI and I’m glad I wasn’t taken to see an untidy room. I feel a degree of professional confidentiality is owed to the occupant of the room so I’m afraid I can not post her name or any pictures of her knickers. Instead, here is a nice picture of penguins.

(Courtesy of Google images)

I was also glad for once that my camera has a habit of taking out of focus shots.

Every meal time in the Laws building I look at the pictures on the dining room walls of the past winter and summer Halley teams. It’s a great feeling to be part of an exclusive club and a member of a close knit community like this. Soon the BAS team photo for the summer 2008 team including me and my serial killer friend will be up there as well. The history of Halley is not just on the walls, but also living in the station. Many of this year's summer team have been to Halley several times before and appear on the photos of past years. Brian Newham, for example, pictured here in the dining room is also in previous winter and summer team photos going way back, like something from ‘The Shining’, although he’s not easy to spot as he had hair then.

(Brian and the past winter team photos)

(Summer team wall with Brian hiding in the photos)

After dinner, I paid a visit to the bar and lounge (something I don’t normally do as I am always working so hard - honest) and sat with the other guys discussing our experiences and adventures. The conversation turned to the deeper subject of what we had learnt about ourselves during our stay at Halley. Phil Moneypenny’s realisation was that there was nothing he liked better than a bacon butty. Mine was that I’ll never get to the pole man-hauling. It was definitely beyond me. Andy’s was that he gets a good night’s sleep if he is not in the same pit room as me. Profound!

While I have been here, in little under three weeks including a four-day storm, the Halley VI site has gone through great transformations. The two ‘energy modules’ which were covered have been rapidly growing internally with the installation of plant and services systems. Four modules have been tented and service fit-out has proceeded at a pace, and the remaining module at the south end of the site has been fully clad. The work rate has been incredible and everyone is proud of what has been accomplished. Everyone is also looking forward to going home now. It's been a long season for the build team, but you can tell there will be as much eagerness to return for the second season’s build in about eight months time. Its the draw of Antarctica and Halley!

(Final cladding panel being installed)

(The completely clad module on site)

I have to clear up my remaining work items, and prepare for the flight back to Cape Town. The flight leaves at 5am tomorrow morning and we have to check in to the Laws at 3.45am. I hope I don't sleep in.

(Last sunset - a tear jerker)

Smile!

2008-02-26T17:00:00.000-08:00

Tuesday 26 February 2008

Here I am again in the Morrison team photo. This time I looked behind me to check that there were no serial killers or psychopaths. I was glad to see Andy Cheatle and one fully clad Antarctic module.

I’d totally forgotten about the Morrison team photo (its the cold that does it) and was lucky that Simon Gill found me digging around on the container line. When we turned up at the site we were greeted by the calls of ‘Architect’s late as usual’. It’s good to make an entrance. Every one was happy though (you can see them smiling in the photo), and I think that’s partially because we are on programme and every one is starting to look forward to going home, and partially because of where we are and what we are working on.

I fly out with 17 others (five Morrison and 13 BAS) tomorrow at 5am. So along with checking in all my bags and belongings, I have to ensure that all my work here is complete. I have to get cracking today because I have a lot to do.

Sun dog

2008-02-24T15:48:00.001-08:00

If I'd thought fast enough I would have had a shot of the sun shining out my arse. D'oh!

Saturday 23 February 2008
-5.3 deg C
Wind: 19.7 knt at 87 deg E

Directly after the team photo we had a 'sun dog'. The skies were clear and the sun dropped onto the horizon creating lots of opportunities for atmospheric photos. This one of the B2 module taken from the Laws building makes it look look it's on some kind of lunar terrain.

This was the rest of the site. I was trying to capture the effect of the snow being blown over the surface of the ground. The whole ground plane was moving.

Everyone with a camera was taking photographs. You can't go anywhere at Halley without a camera. There is a photogenic scene every time you go outside.

Another shot of the sun over a fluid terrain.

Andy Cheatle and the Halley sign post.

Kirk (Field GA and camera man for the Halley build), posing with the sun. It did seem like we were standing on an alien terrain.

The sun is mostly up above the horizon. Apart from an hour or so now, we have constant sunlight. But the movements of the sun still baffle me. In the evening it appears to be going in a different direction to the mornings, which I know can not happen.

I was thinking about this at breakfast and asked the question openly to the dining room 'which way does the sun track round the horizon?'

'The earth goes round the sun stupid' came the answer. That's the problem with scientists. They never clarify anything, only confuse.

Postcards from the edge...of the Brunt Ice Shelf II

2008-02-24T09:26:00.001-08:00

Hi Bobby!

Missing you very much and looking forward to seeing you soon!

Lots and lots and lots of love

Daddy

XXX

Cheese!

2008-02-23T10:47:00.000-08:00

Saturday 23 February 2008
-5.3 deg C
Wind: 19.7 knt at 87 deg E

This is the Halley summer team photo, taken yesterday afternoon at the foot of the Laws building steps. You can't miss me - I'm the one in the orange boiler suit.

All of us standing together for the first time in 'a huddle' before dinner.

But not before I got this shot of Richard setting up the camera to take the team photo. The ground looked fluid all day. Very atmospheric.

I think I need to make myself less conspicuous! I found out this lunch time that there was one more person on the photograph than there are people known on the base. What's doubly spooky is that he is standing behind me and next to Andy Cheatle. No one has been able to identify him behind the goggles and heavy clothing. One thing I know, I'll be baracading the pit room door tonight! I hope its not Michael Myers!!!!!

The day after yesterday

2008-02-23T02:49:00.000-08:00

Saturday 23 February 2008
-5.3 deg C
Wind: 19.7 knt at 87 deg E

The last few days have been a bit blustery, but everyone sounds like they are having fun. For an example it's an adventure just to walk between the Laws and Piggott buildings.

Some people are really enjoying the adventure. Simon Gill here is really getting into the spirit of adventure. Actually Simon has been bouncing around like Tigger for the past few days. I think he is looking forward to going home, although he hasn't mentioned it - but he talks a lot about going to Cape Town!

The weather is clearing up now. The high winds are going and there is a wash of wind driven snow that is flowing across the surface of the ground. Its like standing in a shallow stream, where the water is snow and it covers the entire surface.

This gives some stunning pictures, the best of which you will be able to see on Andy Cheatle's blog site: http://andy-n-tantarctic.blogspot.com/

Meanwhile back on site, we had a lot of work to do. Austin's crane had to be dug out, there was a lot of snow management to be done around the modules to level the site again.

Here, Ian can be seen spring cleaning in the B2 module, brushing all the snow out the front door. The clad module seems to have performed very well against the build up of snow.On the subject of front doors, Martin Bell and his team were the most excited of all at the opportunity of clearing snow with their Caterpillar D7 Bulldozers. On Friday morning, clearing the snow from the annexes, they also managed to remove two pairs of skis and our doorway. Luckily I am sharing with Pete Willmott who put his crack team of joiners on the case. For a while I thought I'd be sleeping in the gym again.

Has anyone seen our site?

2008-02-20T14:04:00.000-08:00

Wednesday 20 February 2008
-5 deg C
wind: 35-40knts, with gusts up to 50knts
Very poor visibility

This was one of the last pictures I took of site (another on 'one blustery day'), taken at midnight local time on Monday night, 18 Feb. We have not seen site since. Wind speeds and poor visibility mean that we are contained between the site accommodation buildings, the Laws building (for food and recreation) and the Piggott building (for work). BAS require that anyone traveling between buildings radio in to the Comms room to confirm where they are and where they are going and then re-confirm when they get there. Preferably we are to travel in pairs or groups.

This is the Laws building in a good patch of weather. Most of the time visibility is so poor, you can't see your destination. If you get lost and lose your bearings you are in real trouble. Typically, I estimate there is around 50 - 70m before objects disappear into the blizzard of snow. Yesterday and today were declared non-site working days. The five day forecast predicts this weather continuing into Monday of next week. We have to wait and see when we can get back to work. Two days down and all of the guys I've spoken to are itching to get going again. Unfortunately all reports say it will get worse first. The Laws building where I am typing from is shaking around quite a bit and the sound of the wind whistling past is loud too.

Meanwhile, the Morrison management team have taken their meetings into the Laws lounge. There is still lots of discussion to be had about a great many issues, and lots of situations to be resolved.

The sense of urgency on this has also drawn in Mr Cheatle who has been patiently weighing up the developing situations and waiting for his turn to make a contribution to the debates.

Meanwhile, the wind driven snow has left a number of us homeless. With over 50 years of Antarctic experience and technical understanding of the particular mechanics at Halley, it didn't occur to some that a blow would block off all of the doors to the annex pit rooms. About a dozen of us are bunking into the Drewry and Laws buildings for the next few nights.

I'm not complaining. This is my room, the Halley Gym. I had it all to myself last night - the biggest bedroom on the station and just look at the toys I have to play with. I can quite happily see this storm through, but it is a bit strange to think that I'll have about two and a half weeks at Halley, and half of that time will be spent in a storm.

Some are not quite so lucky. Poor Danny Wood (Structural Engineer) ran over to the Laws building for breakfast on Tuesday morning in a T-shirt and trousers, and when he came back his front door was gone. He's been camped out in the Drewry wearing borrowed clothes (which can't be great because everything hums here). I think it all got a bit too much for him because this lunch time I caught him trying to dig his way back into his pit room. Either he can't see through his goggles or he's on a do-or-die mission because he's standing level with the top of the pit room roof and the wind is filling up snow in front of his door as fast as he can clear it. I believe he did get in to reclaim some vital posessions and sanity in the end. Apparently Phil Moneypenny had to haul him out of the doorway through an opening in the snow - I wish I'd caught that on camera!

The Environment Strikes Back!

2008-02-19T06:09:00.000-08:00

Tuesday 19 February 2008
-6.9 deg C
Wind: 37.4 knt at 92 deg E

We had almost completed constructing our fleet of inter-galactic space ships, at our rebel base on the ice planet of Halley. Even though we hid (almost) everything under covers, the evil empire -galaxy of Gallixion has spotted out outpost and decided to attack.

Allied satellite images posted on the dining room notice board show the galaxy moving in on us. The Base Commander has given the order to evacuate.

We are being bombarded with heavy winds and driven snow. The spin drift really does get everywhere and through everything. Y-fronts are not the thing to be wearing today. Above is a view of our deserted pit rooms. We all make a run to the command centre for a briefing and a cup of tea.

Luckily we can still just see the command centre through the alien onslaught. After a big bowl of Alpen and a cuppa we get into character to man the ships and retaliate

Ace pilot A. Cheatle and I follow the hand lines to the ships and prepare for battle. Its going to be a tough fight, especially since I'm down to my last three bars of chocolate - but we have to give it our best shot.....

Expedition to the Pole

2008-02-19T04:56:00.000-08:00

Sunday 17 February 2008
-13 deg C
Wind speed about 8 knt

Here we are - Laurel and Hardy about to set off on our intrepid expedition walking around the Halley site, pretending we are going to the South Pole. We packed our sledges with eight pieces of Halley VI prime steel, which with supplies of chocolate and a little water, weighed in at around 140+ kg. We started at 10.30am and completed the first 5km lap by 12 noon.

Meanwhile, Simon Coggins (BAS scientist) was tearing up the track on a kite. I think he did about 14 or 15 laps that day. That's smart thinking - you wouldn't catch the ones with brains pulling heavy sledge loads on foot. Come to think of it, Andy and I were the only ones man-hauling that day. Other means of getting around included skiing, walking and running. The closest thing to what we were doing was the Morrison team pulling the happy sledge around. (They were running the opposite way round with refreshments for everyone - I was given a piece of short bread from Pete Willmott - a Kodak moment in itself!) That proves it really - the brains on the base were not being so stupid as to do hauling.

It soon became apparent that there has to be something better than man hauling to get to the South Pole. There is definately something insane about it. A lot of time and thought is put into making it easier: adjusting the harness so it is over the hips and not the back, rationalising supplies to reduce weight, reducing friction on the sledge, wearing the right clothes etc. But the fact remains it is still man hauling and the real thought should be given to eliminating the exercise altogether. Mad dogs and Englishmen!

The first lap, 5km around a groomed snow road was gruelling! For the second lap we each took out two steels to lighten the sledge to around 110kg. (I tried to put mine in Andy's sledge but he was watching). At first that was easier, but it soon became as difficult as the first lap and took the same time. It is incredible to think that people can push themselves to average 22km per day for months on end with more weight than this. Brian Newham said 'it's all in the head' - and he's right.

We called it a day to hauling after the second lap. By then it was 2pm. I was delighted I'd managed to do 10km with the loads that we had, and I think Andy felt a real sense of achievement too - between all the swearing. It did strike me in the last kilometre, that although man hauling must be one of the most insane activities, it was not nearly as stupid as pulling Faber Maunsell's steelwork around like a set of mortal chains.

I really wanted to get a sense of a day's travel to the pole and did another two laps walking which was great - but still hard. Andy did another skiing. I went to bed at 8:30 and when Andy came back to the pit room I was already snoring. (I do try to remedy this but can't really feel too guilty - because he farts in the office).

The end!

Training

2008-02-16T10:06:00.000-08:00

After training

Friday 15 February 2008
-18.6 deg C
wind 5.2 kn at 94 deg E

This week I have been in training for the man-hauling on Sunday’s charity event. This has largely involved increasing my chocolate and pudding consumption and trying not to exert myself too much. But last night I decided to pull some weights to help prepare me both physically and mentally for what was to come.

In all the best Antarctic adventuring books there is always lots to read about how the cold, snow and the physical human condition conspired to create situations that were unexpected. I’m glad to note that in my own little way, I experienced some of those.

I dragged the sledge over to the site and loaded on 12 steel angle sections, attached the sledge to the harness, attached the harness to myself and started to pull. Immediately I started to sweat badly and found it a great effort. The sweat soaked into my hat which froze like stiff cardboard to my head. The inside of my boiler suit was saturated. I thought it would be good to listen to my i-pod at the time, but the wires to the earphones literally turned to stiff wire. The ear pieces sprang out of my ears and hovered about a centimetre away. I could still hear the music. The work was back breaking and I had to take a bent-over stance to try to gain enough forward momentum to move. My anti-fog glasses were useless with all the condensation that built up inside them.

Eventually after about 20 minutes I finally got the sledge to move. That night I think I covered a total distance of 500m. Not a good start for a target of 4x5km! I did find out later that 12 steel angles comes to approximately 200kg, and that to achieve a load of 150kg I should have taken nine angles. Andy suggested eight plus the supplies we will need. He is doing the hauling with me on Sunday. That sounds good to me – 134 kg steel and 16kg chocolate. I can see the sledge getting lighter in the first hundred yards. Training has its advantages.

Meanwhile, back on site....

2008-02-14T16:01:00.000-08:00

Module C prior to tenting
Tenting the module
All wrapped up for the winter
Cladding module B2
Roof panel placed in preparation for fixing

Thursday 14 February
-18.6 deg C
wind 5.4 Kts at 94 deg E

On site at Halley there is lots of activity. There are seven Antarctic modules and there is a great urgency to complete the work required for the end of the season, especially while the weather is favourable. This week Morrison has been tenting the modules, partly in preparation for the winter, and partly to enable the continued installation of the services away from the snow, wind and cold. The task of tenting the modules is not small. The covers are made into single piece enclosures which require lifting in one go. Its like flying an enormous kite. The procedure requires one team on the ground holding guide ropes, with another team inside the module easing the covers on with long poles. I was on the ground holding on to the tent with a rope. For once I felt that all the food I had eaten on the Shackleton came in useful as I did my best to try and keep my feet on the ground.

When we got here, modules E1 and E2 (the energy modules) were already covered. This was to give maximum time for the installation of the main plant. Since then it has all hands to the science modules, command module and sleeping module. Each morning a new cover goes on.

Now the tents are on, most of the on site activities are inside. I can hear sawing and thumping and drilling and cursing, only muffled by the tune of the particular CD player in each module. I have been listening to Irish Folk music in module E1, where I was looking at floor cassettes, to Blondie in module C (the command module), looking at pods. I spent this morning in module H1 - I haven't heard Guns n' Roses in ages. Truly an international project.

The cladding of module B2 (the sleeping module) is progressing at a pace as well. The belly, sides and roof are now on and the aim is to get the module ends on and completed by the weekend. It's really taking shape and looking quite impressive. After the cladding is complete there will be an exercise to move it to an adjacent site to set it up for the winter. Hopefully I will still be here for that, as it will be an incredible sight to see an (almost) complete module move! I

Note the yellow 'modular lifting beam' used to install tents and cladding. Its probably one of the most useful and well used pieces of kit on the site, next to Gavin Simmons' ski-doo

I will keep you posted

Sunset

2008-02-14T10:13:00.000-08:00

For 100 days the sun has been above the horizon. Today marked the last day of constant sunlight, and for many signals the end of the summer. At about 10:30 last night the sun dipped below the horizon before coming back up. Many BAS people were out to see it, with a film shoot on the platform of the Laws building.

This was the view, with the Piggott building in the background. Sunset,

and sunrise.

Delusions of grandeur

2008-02-13T16:17:00.000-08:00

Wednesday 13 February 2008
-15.4 deg C
Wind: 5.7 kn, at 68 deg E

This Sunday BAS are holding a sponsored ski to the South pole. This will be 320 laps around the perimeter drum line and the event is being held to raise money for the RNLI. You can see more information at:

http://www.justgiving.com/ski_to_pole

I've decided to do it man hauling and to treat it as a typical day on a real expedition to the pole. The first task was to find out how real I need to make it, so I contacted Dave Mitchell, our expert on these matters and all time hero (sorry Dave, but its true), to find out what weight and distance I should be looking at. He replied:

Now then, your walk to the pole! I'm assuming you are a purist and wish to complete the journey unsupported and without re-supply? If your not assuming any wind assistance from kites and your distance is 1600km you would hope to average over your journey 22km per day, which is equal to 72 days of travel. The distance per day would be higher but you will struggle to achieve this when the sledge is heavy at the start of the journey and you have uphill terrain. On average you will need 1kg of food per man per day so there's 72kg (assuming you have no need for emergency rations in case you don't make the 22km/day) - the rest of your equipment would probably be in the region of 85kg - sledge/tent/fuel etc and this assumes that you have a travelling companion to share the communal items, otherwise you would be approx 100kg of equipment and fuel. So the lightest your likely to be is 157kg including you sledge/skis/trace/harness etc. Giving yourself a margin for error in case you get stuck I'd load your sledge with 150kg of weight and set off.

Yikes! This means I am looking at a minimum of 4 laps with a minimum 150kg sledge!

I tried pulling a sledge tonight. I was given the sledge and harness by the GA, Kirk, and I filled it up with snow. Towing it around felt OK but it wasn't anything like 150kg. This was demonstrated in some locations there the sledge out-paced me. I bumped into Danny Wood (Structural Engineer) who reckoned it was about 40-50kg. He said it could do with some steelwork but I'm not sure if that was for weight or structural stability. I didn't ask. From experience it's always best to stop these conversations before the cross bracing gets added.

I've got two days to get into shape before the big day - Thursday and Friday, rest day Saturday and then the long haul. Like the best Antarctic adventures I'm completely unprepared and the wrong shape, but with this blog I'm committing myself.

What's the worst that can happen?
If I fall over in the snow, they are bound to find me by the size of the wind tail I'll create.
It could be the smallest Antarctic exploration disaster documented.

At least its going to be an adventure!

In all seriousness, I don't think I'll get 150kg on the sledge. I might get 100kg. And I'll never get four laps round the base. If I can do one lap I'll be delirious. Two would be an absolute miracle. I don't dream of going beyond that, but I'll do my best!

So, to round up, please could you take a look at this web site and consider some sponsorship? Anything would be appreciated. Thanks - I'll let you know how I get on.

Gulp

Home & work

2008-02-13T14:25:00.000-08:00

Just a quick tour of home and work at Halley. This is our accommodation. The Drewry building is the red unit behind. Its normally used as a Summer accommodation building for Halley, but is currently full of builders. The white huts in front are more pit rooms, showers and toilets. I'm in one of the white huts

This is our front door. As you can see it's very homely. I'm sure I was standing upright when I took this shot. I hope this is not a testament to Morrison's building abilities. I'm sharing with Andy, Pete and Brian. We all snore except Andy who stays awake listening to us.

This is our office, the Piggott building. It used to be the Space Science Building. Now it's full of the Halley VI build management team - not quite so high-brow.

This is me trying to get back to the Piggott from site, looking a bit lost. I think I was waiting to hitch a lift at this point, but had to walk in the end.

Just in time for the 5 O' clock progress meeting

Postcards from the edge...of the Brunt Ice Shelf

2008-02-12T17:33:00.001-08:00

The first and last of my daily site reports to the office. I had to knock that one on the head very quickly!

A day on site

2008-02-12T17:00:00.000-08:00

Working on site is not easy. Firstly there is alot of standing around. You have to be careful not to bump into the next person. This can be difficult, especially with dark glasses on but these people are professionals. Fortunately the padded clothing reduces the risk of any bruising.

After a few hours everyone is tired and in need of a well earned cuppa. Spot the charlie on the left trying to warm his hands on a thermal mug.

Then there is always the task of making notes to monitor site progress.

After several hours of careful concentration, I finally got the pen to work. No wonder we are all sound asleep by 10 every night.

Monday 11 February 2008
-11.5 deg C

Antarctic moods

2008-02-12T16:14:00.000-08:00

The changing moods of Antarctica, as demonstrated by the Laws building, and this is just over 5 days!

The Halley effect

2008-02-12T06:46:00.000-08:00

Smoko in the site hut

Dinner in the Laws building

Sat 9 February 2008

-10 deg C

Bright with clouds

The Halley V site consists of a number of living, working and science buildings. The science is the principle reason for being there, but being in Antarctica, there are a good many life – critical support systems in place. The biggest and most commonly known building on the base is the Laws building, containing accommodation (mainly for scientists and key BAS staff) Base Commander’s office, Doctor’s surgery, dining room, kitchen, lounge, bar, library, gym & music room, and mechanical and electrical workshops etc. It is the living heart of Halley. Many of the working limbs of Halley function in site wide buildings, the Simpson, Piggott, CAS lab, Drewry and Garage etc. There is a great explanation on the BAS web site with lots of other links to BAS pursits at http://www.antarctica.ac.uk/living_and_working/research_stations/halley/index.php

The Halley V site is playing host to the Halley VI construction team and site over two build seasons, and so there is not only a lot more people on the site than normal, but big mix of people as well. One of the first things that stuck me (apart from the site or the environment and the buildings) was the people that inhabit Halley.

Because of its unusual location, being situated on a floating ice shelf, isolated and miles from anywhere, you can understand that to be here, you really have to love it. I think it affects everyboby. Some people I have seen back at BAS in Cambridge look quite normal, but when they are at Halley its as if they have picked up an additional sense: They are totally 'keyed' into their surroundings and environment.

The Morrison crew are no exemption. Not only are many of the managers ex-BAS, but most of the construction crew have done several summers and winters working on various BAS bases including Halley. The whole place comes alive because so many people know each other from past years. There is alot of catching up with old friends.

The Halley effect is very noticeable on the newcomers to the site too. One guy I met from South Africa before coming out seemed very stern and defensive (although I enjoyed talking with him). I got the impression that the conversation was a bit like playing ‘Buckeroo’. If you touch on the wrong subject you were in trouble. Eight weeks at Halley, most of them putting masts up at the Halley VI site and he’s completely chilled out. Its a transformation. You can see it in his face – I didn’t recognise him at first.

Speaking of meeting old friends, I was also re-acquainted to an old one as well - Cadbury's Dairy Milk Chocolate. In this extreme environment you need to eat three times your own body weight in chocolate every day to survive. (Antarctica has something for everyone!). Actually they have provided for two bars per person per day, but as I havent seen my mate since Lent 2007, I think I've got alot of catching up to do.

Halley

2008-02-12T04:29:00.000-08:00

At Halley!!

The Piggott building - HBA office: Antarctica

Home for the next few weeks. Sharing with Pete Willmott (Site Manager), Brian Newham (Morrison Logistics) and Andy Cheatle. Andy says its a snoring competition at night. I don't think he is getting much sleep. I'm not aware of any of this.

Friday 8 February

-9.5 deg C

Clear but stormy skies over the sea.

I had my alarm set for 5am and when I woke the ship was moving really slowly and smoothly. On deck I could see we were approaching the edge of the Brunt Ice shelf, looking for a suitable place to tie up. We were at creek 4, there the Shackleton and the Amderma had made the first call this season to off load their cargo. This is the preferred landing point and the closest route to Halley. There was already a BAS welcoming party ready to meet us and a number of exercises started to test the integrity of the sea ice and moor up the Shackleton.

It wasn’t until after lunch when we were allowed off the ship which was good because we were able to fit in breakfast, mid morning snack and lunch first. I said good bye to everyone I’d met on the ship. I told Danny the Chef I’d miss him. Without looking up from what he was doing he said ‘oh good bye bye’. Such dedication in his work.

Then we were off the ship, lots of photo opportunities on the sea ice before being towed in the ‘happy sledge’ behind a skidoo, and then jumping in a sno-cat for a bumpy one-hour ride to Halley.

This first day has been unbelievable – because I still can’t believe we are here and because the process of taking it all in has been punctuated by several inductions. Vicky, (Base Commander gave us a talk on the 'dos and dont's' around Halley and showed us round the Laws building. Karl (BAS agent for the Halley build) took us around the site, and explained the layout and facilities. Gavin (Morrison) gave us a talk on health and safety around the site, and Martin (Head of vehicles) showed us how to pull a wheelie on a ski-doo and take corners on one ski.

Also, taking a look round site and settling into the environment took the remainder of the day. Tomorrow was the first full day on site. The Morrison team had made lots of progress since the last site pictures I had seen, and the site is changing every day. As well as acting as site Architect I would be working as a cladding fixer and labourer and I am really looking forward to it. Saturday tomorrow and first day on site.

Andy Cheatle Photography Ltd

2008-02-10T03:52:00.000-08:00

Posing for a photo
Taking a shot of the ice
Filming
Climbing into Sno-cat
Caroline Lewis and I on our way to Halley!!!!!

Just a quick blog to post some photos of me standing on the sea ice at the Brunt Ice Shelf. I dont have many photos of mysef on this trip and I certainly don't think of myself as photogenic in any way, but all these photos were taken by Andy. He's got a very good eye for a photo and an ugly filter on the lens which he has set to maximum. It is also helped by the fact that you can't see me behind the clothing on most of them. I thought these pics were cool and show that it's all real! Sometimes I can't believe it.

For more of Andy's photos go to http://andy-n-tantarctic.blogspot.com/ He has taken some brilliant shots. Andy's photos can be purchased at a reasonable cost through Andy Cheatle Photography Ltd, and I shall be acting as his agent.

The Brunt Ice Shelf

2008-02-08T01:09:00.000-08:00

Preparing to off-load

Approaching the landing point

Friday 8 February 2008
-9 deg C
Brunt Ice Shelf

This is my first picture of the Brunt Ice Shelf. It's more stunning (and colder) than anywhere else so far. The Shackleton is currently being positioned to tie up at creek 4. After making sure the sea ice is firm, we will then start to disembark. Currently it is 6 am (9GMT). We should be on the ice shelf by 12 noon (3 GMT). Will keep you posted.

Stancomb-Wills

2008-02-07T14:32:00.000-08:00

Stancomb-Wills (left: Andy Cheatle, right: Andy Cheatle)

Stancomb-Wills again

Thursday 7 February 2008

-6.5 deg C

20:00 hbs ship time (23:00 GMT)

Passing Stancomb-Wills. The ice shelf is breath taking. The Shackleton has encountered a couple of areas of frozen sea and charged straight through. We are now on the last leg of the journey to Halley. We will be there tomorrow morning. Tomorrow starts another adventure.

15 hours to Halley (approximately)

2008-02-07T05:24:00.000-08:00

View behind the ship

And ahead.

Thursday 7 February

10:25 am (13:25 GMT)

-6.5 deg C

Passing the Riiser-Larsenisen ice shelf. Approximately 15 hours to Halley.

Outside

2008-02-07T04:20:00.000-08:00

Crunching through ice yesterday

These bits were easy

The Shackleton likes playing with the ice. It's a test of strength.

6am (9amGMT)
T-shirt weather

World class science!

2008-02-07T02:45:00.001-08:00

World class science team: Left to right - Andy Cheatle (M&E sub-contractor), me (behind the beard), Tughsy (BAS-ABS), Penny (Dentist), Mel (Doctor), Caroline Lewis (BAS)
Tughsy ready for launch
Success!

Wednesday 6 February
-3.5 deg C

We are delighted to announce that the Shackleton science team launched the last XBT rocket at 15:00 hours this afternoon. The launch was a success and the data was successfully saved! It has been a privilege to work with the Shackleton on this scientific venture and to contribute to BAS in the pursuit of world class science!

We would also like to thank BAS for providing us with the other 32 XBT cartridges. If it wasn’t for these, we would not have been able to practice the experiment to make it work in the end. We hope BAS finds the data useful.

Antarctica!

2008-02-06T02:24:00.002-08:00

Antarctica!
A chunk of ice shelf

Tuesday 5 February 2008
Bright with cloudy patches
-6 deg C

Today we reached the coast of Antarctica and are now heading west skirting the Fimbulisen ice shelf, home of the German base Neumayer. It was a shock to finally reach this stage, to finally see on the port side of the ship an ice shelf on the horizon. It was stunning and I think we were all hit by the realisation of what was right in front of us – Antarctica!

After taking a lot of photos of something that still was too far away to make sense of with a camera, I decided to go back inside because the temperature had dropped significantly from the previous days. It was now around -6 degrees, which by Antarctic standards is nothing, but you feel it. I tried wearing different sets of the thermal and warm clothes I have but in the end decided that the best policy will be to wear everything – and take the duvet as well.

I now understand why I have two orange boiler suits of different sizes. The bigger one fits over the not so bigger one. Very cleaver.

Another change from yesterday is the sea. It is still quite calm, but the icebergs are becoming more and more frequent. At the moment the Shackleton is happily crunching over them. Every few seconds there is a crunch, scrape, splash and the ship shudders in the process. This will probably go on until we get to Halley. No one is expecting to get much sleep but I don’t think there are many complaints. The sun is only down for a couple of hours at night and the scenery is just stunning. There seems to be a competition to spot the most wild life. Penguins, leapord seals have been spotted so far, and a few distant whales.

The Captain has posted a projected arrival time at Halley. About 1:40 am on Friday (if I am reading his handwriting correctly). This assumes we can maintain 10 Knots. Not many of the crew are convinced. Our route takes us past Stancomb-Wills, a bottle neck of ice shelf and sea ice. This might slow us up a bit but it promises to be beautiful.

Then on to Halley. I’ve got to say I’m excited and apprehensive. There is a lot to deal with and in a short space of time, but the best approach would be to roll my sleeves up (well one layer maybe) and get on with the job.

Rocket science!

2008-02-05T04:09:00.000-08:00

Preparing the rocket

Ready to launch

Collecting data

Fighting with the computer

Tuesday 5 February 2008

This week we have been launching XBT rockets off the back of the Shackleton in the name of science. How cool is that! All of us passengers signed up and with lots of excitement and wearing full PPE including eye protection we watched the first launch. It was a success but not quite what we were led to believe. We then we took on the task of collectively saving the data gathered by the war head, into the computer in the dry lab.

It was interesting to see how the collective excitement of five people can turn into disorganised chaos as we tried to feed the required information into the DOS programme. All of us against one computer and the computer won every time. The instruction sheet from BAS said the process was ‘self explanatory’ but I think this applies only to scientists. Eventually we got the job done, not long before the next rocket had to be launched.

The requirement was to release rockets every six hours and we put and names against the various time slots. The most fun part was finding out, after every launch, what story there was to tell. Usually it was how the rocket picked up too much ‘noise’, or how the temperature path on its descent into the sea was rather an odd shape. It seemed like everyone was turning into a scientist – except me. My stories were how I couldn’t get past the screen saver to begin the experiment, or how the rocket canister refused to engage with the launching gun, or how I ran into another argument with the program in trying to input the data. I hope to make a successful test by the time we get to Halley.

One concern I have is that the co-author of the experiment is Jon Shanklin who we have been working very closely with at BAS on the design of Halley. God knows what he’s going to get when he sees the data we’ve collected. I have been trying my best – honest.

The sea is slightly more choppy today and ice bergs have re-appeared (quick change of subject). I launched a rocket this morning at 6am and am now getting ready (having a cup of tea) for gash. I hope the day improves.

OK - now it's dead calm

2008-02-04T05:56:00.000-08:00

Monday 4 February 2008
17:00 ship time, 19:00 GMT
0 deg C

This morning the sea looked as flat as it could ever be. Thid afternoon it looks even flatter. It's incredibly still. There's no movement in the ship except for the slight vibration of the engines. Outside it is like this all around. Everywhere is the same flat smooth surface. The sea looks like it has been wiped of all its characteristics. Again, it's amazing to think that a place like this can exist on earth. It's isolation, being protected by a barrier of much more turbulent seas further north and it's infrequent passage by ships, makes it even more special. I can't wait to see what comes up next.

Dead calm

2008-02-04T05:23:00.000-08:00

Calm

Satellite image of sea conditions to Halley

A mark up of our current position

Monday 4 February 2008
Over cast but dead calm outside

0 deg C

The sea outside is dead calm. I've never seen anything like it before. Yesterday we had sea birds and whale sightings and the sea had some life. Today there are no sign of life out there at all, no sea ice or icebergs - just flat still water – it’s as if everything disappeared and left the sea motionless. We are smoothly moving through it. Amazing!

I went on deck, up to the wheel house and monkey island (the deck above the wheel house). There is nothing out there except flat water and a touch of snow.

In the wheel house I chatted to Andy Campbell and he showed me the weather satellite image for the journey. We are heading straight towards Antarctica down the 00.00 longitude meridian, then will skirt the edge of the Fimbulisen ice shelf, past Neumayer (the German base – we’ll give them a wave), round to Stancomb-Wills (a bottle neck of ice shelf and sea ice on the Brunt ice shelf) and then to Halley. Andy believes we might be at Halley by Friday if this weather continues. From the satellite image it looks like there is a clear passage between ice shelf and sea ice for most of the way through. On the first call out in December all of this was sea ice.

Although we are following 00.00 longitude, the ship's time is currnetly GMT -2hrs, to catch up to Halley's time. It is 11.47 ship's time and the re-assuring smell of burning from the Galley signals that lunch is almost ready.

Engine room

2008-02-04T02:28:00.000-08:00

Peter and Andy talk business over the control panels

Propeller shaft (beneath decking) and junction with inner hull

Engine room and the two main engines

Understanding the system

Saturday 2 February 2008
In the lowest decks of the Shackleton

On Saturday morning at 9 am prompt, we were kindly given a guided tour of the engine rooms and main plant on board the Shackleton, by the Chief Engineer Peter Brigden. In our party was Andy, Vanessa (Third Officer) and myself. The tour was very thorough and it was obvious that Peter took great pride in his work. We saw the control terminals, the electrical switch boards, the workshops and stores, the rudder control mechanism, the fire suppression system, the gearing for the propeller, the vertical azimuth, the other retractable azimuth, remote safety switches (for use in emergency situations) the engine room, the generators, the generator controls, the auxiliary generators, the heat recovery systems and colorifiers, the fuel tanks, and the sewage treatment plant. We even came across the leg cladding that was required on site. Peter obviously shared a strong connectivity with his machinery as he often would stroke or pat various parts. This must be as a result of knowing the functions and functioning of every plant and service component on the ship inside out (and possibly from spending too many hours down there). The descriptions he gave were incredibly thorough and complicated.

Although I believe I understood it all, I unfortunately forgot most of it very quickly. I have always believed in the idea that there are two types of knowledge – knowledge known to you, and knowing where to find the knowledge. I am confident that any questions asked of me about the plant and services on board the Shackleton can be quickly and successfully answered by referring them to Peter Brigden.

From an architectural point of view, the spaces around the plant and services were amazing, full of raised decks, crawl spaces, tunnels and ladders. We literally were moving around inside a machine, rather than a space with machines in. The scale was mechanical not human and these spaces were made even more restricted because of the confining shape of the hull, especially fore and aft.

Although there were many similarities in the services between the Shackleton and Halley VI, it was impressive to see how versatile the ship was in moving power around from one area to another. The process was a bit like a Rubik’s cube as the sequencing involved were not straight forward.

Attached are a few photos and film clips to try to convey the space and atmosphere down in the engine rooms.

The other side

2008-02-03T07:52:00.000-08:00

Saturday 2 February 2008
Bright with some clouds
Approx +1 deg C outside

The sea is calmer now. We have crossed the convergence between the Southern ocean and the Atlantic and are now on the other side – the Antarctic side, sailing through the Southern ocean to the Weddell Sea. Getting to this point and crossing the convergence to me was like something from the last chapter of 20,000 Leagues under the Sea, where the Nautilus dives headlong without control into a whirlpool and no one is sure if there is anything on the other side. It feels like we have crossed the most significant barrier and are now heading towards an entirely different world, largely alien to human understanding. We have been promised some good weather for the remainder of the journey. Maybe it’s time to stop taking the sea sickness drugs. If I do, with a more level head, I’ll probably re-read my blogs and think what a load of nonsense!

In the Southern Ocean, on the approach to this alien world there are more and more icebergs appearing on the horizon and its getting colder outside. There have been sightings of birds (mostly albatrosses) whales and dolphins. I saw some dolphins too (or at least I think I did). I had been up to the wheelhouse to get some idea of our position, when the Captain and third mate were looking out of the windows on the starboard side. They said there were dolphins approximately 100m from the ship. I looked and couldn’t see them. The Captain pointed and said ‘there’. I still could not see. He pointed again. I could see the slight breaking of the water’s surface but still was not sure if I had the right spot. I took up my camera to try to take a snap when the Captain said ‘but that bloody thing away man and use your EYES’

I guess when you spend a lot of time working to a computer screen (at work) and are unfamiliar with new environments around you, you are not quite as sensitive to what goes on as you should be. It must be to do with what you are used to. For example walking round the engine rooms with the Chief Engineer this morning, he told us in detail how the services of the ship operate. At one point he pointed at the bulkhead in the aft hold, describing what a particular component did. I was buggered if I could distinguish it from the box next to it, of visually track where all the pipes and cables went, in the spaghetti on the wall. He knew what every part of the mechanical and electrical services did on the ship. Everybody must see the ship differently and have a different mental model of what it is, based on what is important to them. After all, although it is just one ship, it is an incredibly complicated machine. I don’t believe I am an exception to this hypothesis. I found out where the mess room was instantly, where to make a cup of tea, and found the gym. Job done.

Well not entirely. I’ll be keeping a watch out for whales, dolphins, sea birds, icebergs, sea ice, the ice shelf, changes in the sea’s behaviour and changes in the temperature. I need to become sensitised to this because this is not an environment that you can experience every day and in fact I’m very lucky to experience it once in my life time. I don’t want to miss it.

Recreation

2008-02-03T07:33:00.000-08:00

Wonky badminton
Andy tries to make sense of the gym

Saturday 2 February 2008

Recreation is a very important part of life on board the Shackleton. Whilst at sea there is no escape from the ship and the recreational facilities on board are one of the best ways to keep fit, let off steam and kill some time. On the Shackleton there are the following facilities:

A gym area, zoned out from a storage space in the main hold. As a result it picks up a bit of dust and debris, but I don’t think anyone is complaining. In it there is a multi-gym, bench, a few bumbell weights and an old and slightly rusty concept II indoor rover. My favourite is the rower because I know this machine and am used to it. I thought I was. Rowing on the CII in the Shackleton feels just like rowing on water. As the ship pitches and moves about the rower moves about too. Sometimes you are rowing up hill, sometimes down, or leaning to the left or right. It’s a really active twist on a familiar machine. It is most uncanny when it loses its frictional grip of the deck and starts sliding around on the floor of the main hold.

As we are carrying only a small amount of cargo, the deck to the main hold has been adapted into a badminton court, for wonky badminton. We’ve played doubles with some of the crew. With a lop-sided net and bent badminton racquets we played a one sided game for about 45 minutes on a few occasions. The crew seemed experts and always kept their feet. Whenever we went to make a shot, depending upon which way the ship was moving at the time, we would either spring gracefully into the air, or crumple straight into the deck. Add to this the low level halogen lights shining in your eyes and blurred vision from the sea sickness drugs, it makes for a very interesting game. This will take some getting used to and as we only have about a week left on the ship, I really don’t think we will master it, but will persevere.

There is also an exercise bike on the same deck level, on the other side of the laundry. It’s a good one but, like the rower, it really feels like you are being toyed with by the ship. Like the rower, the bike is a bit worn. When using it, there is little resistance to the peddles. You can’t help cycling at 120 rpm no matter what intensity level you are on. With the pitching and rolling of the ship, you have no choice but to lock your arms into the handle bars and hold on for dear life. The bike is fixed back to the bulkhead wall with a couple of adapted shelf brackets so should not fall over, but it does feel like it is being tested to the limit.

I had noticed that the crew were never seen in the gym or on the bike. I thought it might be because of their shifts or because they were tired after their days and nights work. Yesterday we went on a tour of the engine room with the Chief Engineer Peter Brigden. When we came to the wet science room we saw a concept II, running machine, step machine and other fitness items – all brand new! The crew have their own private gym! Crafty.

In the lounge (red room) there are lots of board games to help pass an evening. The challenge is firstly to find a game with all its pieces, and then try to keep the board on the table whilst playing. Scrabble is a favourite because double word points are given for Antarctic terminology such as ablation, sastrugi, and spindrift (which is allowed as one word)

In addition to this, there is also a TV room, (the green room), with video and DVD players and a drop down screen. On the walls are cabinets with lots of films to choose from. It’s like being in a little cinema, and when there is a film showing, it is good that people can drift in and out as they please. Everyone on the ship is friendly, chatty and sociable, but there are a few characters amongst them.

Icebergs again!

2008-02-02T07:21:00.000-08:00

Saturday 2 February
Still chilly and calm

I'm getting a sense of deja vu here. These are surely the same icebergs we saw yesterday! Either they are pacing us, or we are going round in circles.

I think I'd better inform the Captain.

Icebergs!

2008-02-01T07:13:00.000-08:00

Friday 1 February 2008

A bit chilly outside, but bright

and a calmer sea

We saw our first icebergs today! Very exciting!!

The surreal

2008-02-01T06:18:00.000-08:00

31 January 2008
Still overcast with choppy sea

There’s something a bit surreal about all of this. Firstly we have not seen land since Saturday, which is a big deal to a non sailor like me. There is nothing but rolling water outside. All of us are captive in this capsule of a ship. Each day the water might be more active or less active depending on the mood of the sea (as far as I can understand). Once you overcome the sea sickness you still feel out of sorts because of the extent of the movement. (To me it feels like the end of a flu). You feel disorientated and clumsy. Your legs ache from trying to stay upright. You keep crashing into walls (bulk-heads) and railings as the ship pitches forwards, backwards, left and right. Currently we are in the middle of ‘the convergence’ and nothing stays still for a moment. It’s like being on a perpetual roller coaster, earlier in slow motion, now at full tilt. Sometimes it feels like gravity has doubled as the ship ploughs into the sea. Sometimes it feels almost like weightlessness as the ship falls back from the swell. All the time you are flung from side to side. The sea water crashes into the reveals of the ship’s windows and spins round like in a washing machine. It sometimes feels like my head is doing that motion too.

There are many surreal moments to experience, such as watching people in the mess room eat, while the sea water races past the circular windows, crashing and frothing. Everybody is calm inside but the sea looks manic outside.

As a passenger it really feels as if the ship could be anywhere. There is no external visual reference to confirm where we are (none that I could name). There is a TV room with videos but no broadcast channels, not even BBC News. Everyone else on the ship, crew and passengers. are great, but despite the ability to call home and communicate with work via email, you cannot help feeling completely isolated from the rest of the world.
To confuse us even more the clocks move back one hour every two nights. This is because Halley is on South American time (GMT -3hrs) to coincide with the other bases including Rothera and the usual logistical access point in the Falklands. Currently we are on GMT but we loose another hour tonight. In total from Cape Town we have to lose five hours in about two weeks. We have been at sea for five full days, but it feels like we have been circling Antarctica forever! I even lost track of which day it was.

I popped up to the bridge to find out about our progress. 49 deg 55 mins south I was told. This rang alarm bells to me because Newcastle is further north than we are south – and we have to reach Antarctica at 75 deg south! My pleading to hurry up had no effect and that was the end of that conversation.

Then, just when you think that you are losing all touch with reality, time, space and movement, you walk into the mess room and from the galley you suddenly hear Terry Wogan on Radio 2! A reality check like this, in a world that feels so strange, does not feel like a comfortable combination. Intangible links to the outside world like this (radio, email, skype) feel to me like we are even more isolated from the rest of the world and home, and making distance. I guess sailing takes some getting used to, but in the meantime it’s a very interesting experience which does make your head turn summersaults!

The Doctor says I should come off the sea sickness drugs as they are obviously giving me nightmares. No fear!

Thank goodness the Captain and his officers are in charge of the ship, not me. Every day the Captain writes a log noting weather, speed, progress etc. This can be found on the internet at

http://basweb.nerc-bas.ac.uk/operations/ships/reports/ and is worth a look. If I get a bit of time I might plot the daily references on Google Earth to see where we are.

Gash

2008-02-01T05:40:00.000-08:00

Yellow room (Officer's lounge) after dusting and hoovering
Red room (general lounge) clean too

Gash day: left is me, centre is Dave, right is Julia (assistant cook). Chef refused to be in photo.

Thursday 31 January 2008

Overcast

Choppy sea

Today was my first day on gash duties. Of all the passengers on the ship (five of us) I was the last to participate. This had its advantages because most everything had been done in the days before.

For the breakfast slot, I reported to the Steward, Dave, at 7 am thinking I would have a long day ahead of me. I was given the tasks of hoovering the red room (lounge), hoovering around the mess room and hoovering and dusting the officers’ lounge two decks up. This seemed easy, and in the mess area it was. Up in the officer’s lounge it was a bit different. We are now in the convergence of the Atlantic and Southern oceans. Warm and cold waters are meeting and there is quite a big swell. The ship was lurching from one side to the other. We have always been advised by the crew to ‘keep one hand for the ship and one hand for yourself’. This did not help much because the room is rather big, so my tactic was to catch onto the first thing that came my way. I completed the task but in the process I think I spent as much time on the floor as the head of the hoover. I was off duty by 8 am until lunch.

I had always wondered how the crew managed to stay upright while the ship was throwing the rest of us all around. I thought it was years of experience and a developed skill to anticipate the sea and somehow become one with it. But since I was told that piece of advice I have noticed that whenever they stop to talk to us they automatically either wedge themselves in between two pieces of fixed furniture or put their arm around something immovable as if they were in a relaxed pose, but really are hanging on tight. Mystery solved.

I reported in to the mess room at 11 am for the lunch slot. Dave and I put out all the cold dishes, salads and hot food. Today was pizza. We had a selection of pepperoni or spicy pepperoni pizzas. There was also curry soup. I was told to quickly grab some lunch before it got busy, which I did and sat down next to the chef. He was only eating the soup. I thanked him for the food and asked him if he was going to have any of the other dishes. He said ‘NO’. To try and engage in a longer conversation I asked how long he had been the chef on the Shackleton and thought about asking about his time on board. Unfortunately he didn’t really answer as he was already pre-occupied talking to himself. Then, until 12:30, I was washing and drying dishes and putting them away, which was not a hard task as there are only 22 crew members (some asleep during the day) and us five passengers.

The re-inventing of dishes on the Shackleton, to use up left-overs, is an important activity. The curry soup had obviously come from the curries that had been cooked for the previous night. Yesterday was Andy Cheatle’s turn on gash and I think he took to it like a duck to water. Typical Yorkshireman, he used the left over Yorkshire puddings from the roast the previous night and left them out with a bowl of golden syrup as puddings. It raised a few eye brows but they all went and I had two. Incidentally you can see Andy’s blog at http://andy-n-tantarctic.blogspot.com/ where you might find other recipes such as gravy custard.

I reported back at 15:15 for the dinner slot. Being on a ship it was inevitable that I would be peeling potatoes. Other jobs included cleaning the galley (kitchen) filters, lots of washing up and trying not to fall over. The ship seems to be in increasingly active waters. Again, I had to grab my dinner before the others came in, so that I could be free to wash up during the rest of the service. Respectfully I sat next to the chef again. This time I asked a more open question ‘what sort of working rotor do you have?’

‘You do like to talk some shit don’t ya!’ he replied and stomped off. At this point I thought it was safer to sit with the others. I had wondered why he always sat alone. Another mystery solved.

I think it has been a successful day. My next gash is on 5th February.

Food

2008-01-30T06:06:00.000-08:00

Mess room

30 January 2008
7:30 am GMT
Overcast but bright with lively sea

The food on the Shackleton is superb. There is always a selection of nice things to eat at breakfast, lunch, dinner and even snacks in between. At breakfast there is always a cooked English breakfast option with black pudding (although to some it is not an option), yoghurts, cereals and fruit. At lunch and dinner there is always a selection of about three cooked meals plus salads, cold meats, breads and cheeses etc. There is always a selection of yummy puddings too. It’s very simple – you just go up to the servery with a plate and help yourself to whatever you want. Its all delicious too! They must be proud of what they do.

The Chefs are very talented and creative. As little food as possible goes to waste (as should be the case). For example, left over roast meats are turned into stews, and left over fajita breads are combined with other dishes to create cheesy type wraps with sweet-corn and peppers.

What strikes me is how modest the chefs are with their work. For example, once when I was making a cup of tea, I saw one of the chefs making something with the hot water. I asked him what it was and he said ‘soup’. I said ‘lovely’ and asked him what kind of soup he was making and he said ‘same old shite soup!’ A humbling moment.

In addition to all the food there are tea, coffee and soft drinks facilities available round the clock. Around this deck, in the lounges and TV room there are also a number of fridges containing goodies like beer, cokes and confectionary etc. My favourite is in the TV room. The fridge there is jam packed full of chocolate. It’s not free - you have to sign out what you take on a ‘tick sheet’, but it’s there (and its learnt my name). Three days in to the voyage and it has already been completely re-stocked. I’m not saying it’s all my doing but I hope I don’t go through the sea ice when we get to Halley.

Tomorrow I am on ‘Gash’ which means I will be spending a lot of the day washing dishes, cleaning tables and floors, and generally helping to keep the servery, mess room and lounges stocked up and clean and tidy. You never know – with a bit of luck I might learn some cooking skills! Andy Cheatle is down there at the moment. I’ll go down and see how he is doing. I was going to play a prank and take my laundry down to him – but on second thoughts I’d better not.

P.s. The ship is really moving about now and its getting colder!!!.

Passage to Halley

2008-01-28T13:03:00.000-08:00

The Way List
The route to Halley

28 January 2008

Just a quickie – I popped up onto the bridge to check that someone was steering the ship. I met the Chief Officer Andy Newman who kindly confirmed that an officer was always in attendance and they did have a plan to get to Halley. He showed me the ‘way list’ and the proposed route to get to Halley on the navigational screen. Normally the ship’s route is as the crow flies, but on this journey they were required to take some sea bed readings at two locations for scientific purposes. As a result, the route had a number of small direction changes. The total journey should take a maximum of 14 days (yikes). I took photos of the way list and navigational screen and commented that although we were not in a position to approve these proposals, we had no adverse comments to make at this point. This was followed by a clear case of humour failure and I felt it best to leave the bridge. I guess it must be an Architectural joke.

Later the Captain told us that today we are at about 41 deg S and that we might start to spot sea birds from now on. Also the first Antarctic icebergs might be visible at around 47 deg S. At 50 deg S we meet the ‘Convergence’ where the Atlantic and Southern Oceans. This is where I will be sick again but after that it should be a lot smoother sailing (phew).

The RRS Ernest Shackleton

2008-01-28T10:55:00.000-08:00

The control panels in the Wheel House on Bridge Level 3

Elevation of the RRS Ernest Shackleton grabbed from Google inages

28 January 2008
About 41 deg S

The RRS Ernest Shackleton was built in 1995 and is approximately 80m long. It is arranged on three bridge decks, three service decks and two engine room decks. Each deck has a different coloured ceiling to help you orientate around the ship:

From the top there is the bridge deck level three, which contains the main bridge and wheelhouse, where all of the navigation and steering of the ship is done. It’s the place in the ship where the best views from inside can be gained because of the continuous angled windows all the way round. It is one large open planned space with screens, illuminated banks of control buttons (some of which flash), and coffee making facilities. I can’t help thinking how much it reminds me of the Starship Enterprise bridge, but that probably demonstrates just how few ships bridges I have been on.

Below bridge level three is bridge level two. Here are the cabins for the core of the ship’s crew, including the Captain, Chief engineer and Comms Engineer. Conveniently for the officers it is also the level at which the life boats are housed. You have to be quiet on this level as the crew are always sleeping - actually I mean to say there are always some crew members sleeping.

On Bridge level one, below that, are the cabins for the main crew and other important people.

Below this is Deck A. Here are the remaining crew members (including stewards, cooks, engineers), ourselves (Andy and I) and some of the steward’s stores. This is also the level at which you would board the Shackleton from the dock side. Most of the cabins have views out but some are positioned within the ship and do not have a port hole window. Further back from this area are the hatch doors to the cargo holds and right at the back, elevated, is a helipad. We are currently not carrying a helicopter, but a Caterpillar D9.

Below this is B deck where the lounges (smoking and non smoking) and tv room and bar are. It also has the galley and mess room. This is all situated towards the front of the ship. Towards the middle is the upper level of the main cargo hold, the aft cargo hold behind that, and the rear open deck right at the back (under the helipad). At the back here are also the wet and dry science labs.

C deck is below this contains a laundry, freezers for food, main and aft cargo holds, the gym, badminton court claimed from an empty space in the hold, sauna and electrical and mechanical engineering work shops.

At the bottom of the ship are the upper and lower ‘Tank Top’ decks. These contain the lower cargo hold, engine rooms, generators, heat exchangers, fuel stores, fore and aft thrusters and retractable vertical azimuth. The Chief Engineer told us that the engines are rated at 2 x 4.4MW. There are four generators. The cycle speed of the drive from the engines is 720 rpm which is reduced to 160 for the propellers. These are set at 73 degrees (but to what I’m not sure. The vertical I imagine – at this point my head was beginning to spin from the data). The fore and aft thrusters allow the Shackleton to position itself accurately at a point (such as against the sea ice), assisted by the retractable vertical azimuth which also enables the ship to keep moving forward if the propellers fail.

All this, with its ice-strengthened hull adds to a ship which is well prepared for Antarctic waters, and therefore it is not surprising that this ship was assembled in Norway!

The best places to be are (apart from in the mess room where the food is), standing on the monkey deck which is the roof of the wheelhouse, in the wheelhouse itself, or outside on the A deck. Sunbathing on top of the main hold doors is highly recommended when it is sunny and we are not too far south (something I have not done of course because I am busy working - honest)

My orange boiler suit

2008-01-27T11:31:00.000-08:00

My orange boiler suit
Sunday 27 January 2008
On board the RRS Ernest Shackleton

Andy and I went into the hold this morning to collect our BAS kit bags. With excitement we opened them in our cabins and checked out the goodies. In particular I was eager to find my BAS orange boiler suit. This piece of clothing is almost iconic in BAS circles. It’s what all the crew members wear on site at Halley and defines you as a true Antarctic inhabitant. With my cool orange and black BAS kit bag (sporting the British flag) I found the following:

1 No. pair of steel toe capped snow boots with 2 No. pairs of thermal linings. (I swapped my size 11's for Andy's size 13's. I thought the extra size treads might give more traction in the snow)

2 No. orange boiler suits with thermal padding; (HOORAY!!) one L and one XL, (XL for days when I have a fried breakfast). Both with 'Extreme Team' written on the back (Cool!) and with bright pink internal linings (bonus!)

1 No. Black boiler suit again with 'Extreme Team' written on the back (Excellent)

1 No. pair of snow goggles which fit over...

1 No. cool pair of 'Julbo' sunglasses (with both on you really have to be outside)

1 No. UV resistant drinks bottle (for UV intolerant drinks)

2 No. XL Lowe Alpine thermal vests (I can definitely have some more fried breakfasts)

2 No. XL green Lowe Alpine thermal tops (and the food on the ship is great)

2 No. XXXL green thermal long-johns (They do black pudding in the mornings too!)

1 No. Fleece coat XXS (I think I'll ignore that one)

1 No. orange hard hat with fleece lining and ear covers (for days when I'm working I guess)

2 No. neck mufflers - one blue and one pink (the pink is very fetching)

1 No. fleece balaclava (normally used in winter I understand)

5 No. pairs of thermal socks (lets hope I can last without losing any)

1 No. pair of thermal inner gloves

3 No. pairs of outer gloves - one thermal and two working. (I think I prefer the thermal ones - you can hold a pen better with them)

1 No. hat with Morrison Construction on one side and BAS on the other (This will prove very useful for declaring which camp I subscribe to on site)

2 No. towels (BAS blue)

2 No. pairs of moleskin working trousers waist 38R. Perfect fit (Well there goes all the fried breakfasts - back on the salads)

So, now I am all kitted out for work in the Antarctic! Once I get all this on I might look a bit mis-shapen, but at least I’m now in possession of two famous boiler suits. I’ve been wearing them around the ship to get accustomed to them, but I really should wait until we reach icy waters. It’s still twenty-something degrees here and you get hot very quickly inside of one.

First photos

2008-01-27T01:46:00.000-08:00

V&A waterfront: Our pad in the background
The RRS Ernest Shackleton waiting to go
Leaving Cape Town
Our cabin - home for about 2 weeks

Sea sickness

2008-01-27T00:27:00.000-08:00

27 January 2008
On board the Shackleton
Heading south
Sunny with a little cloud (nice sun bathing weather)

One hour - one lousy hour from leaving Cape Town and I was in the toilet being sick! We hadn't even hit any rough sea. I went to bed yesterday afternoon at about 4:30 and slept almost solidly until 7 this morning.

Now I am armed with tablets, a sea sickness patch and travel bands. Today I am feeling alot better but the ship has slowed down a bit and I think we are running at a normal pace. (On the way out they were testing the full capacity of the engines which was why the ship was moving about alot more - well that's my excuse to be ill). We have been warned of more serious weather in a day or so.

I'm not sure if the remedies actually work or if they just give you something to take your mind off the sea sickness: Tablets make you drowsy, patches give you blurred vision and a dry mouth and travel bands leave grooves in your wrists, but I guess they must be working because I feel almost normal today.

There are some tips that I have been told and some I have quickly picked up which also help:

tip: stand on deck and focus on the horizon
experience: don't stand next to the generator exhaust

tip: take in some sea air
experience: don't stand on the edge of the deck facing into the wind and wearing loose fitting glasses when the ship hits a big wave

tip: take some light exercise (I think this means walking around the deck)
experience: do not try to play badminton in the ship's hold, especially against the crew. You will not only become very ill but loose badly too

tip: go to bed, darken the cabin, close your eves and drift with the ship
experience: no problem - and it keeps me out of trouble

There are advantages to sickness. Despite the fried breakfasts and the abundance of food available every day, you can't help loosing weight. The crew call it the Shackleton diet.

Got to go now and collect my BAS kit bag and see David Bailey about the talk on the ship (which I missed yesterday)

About to go

2008-01-26T01:42:00.000-08:00

Saturday 26 January 2008
Quay 6
V&A Waterfront Marina
Cape Town
Hot

We are on board the RRS Ernest Shackleton. It’s 11.05 South African time. All crew are to be back on the ship by 12 noon and the ship leaves at 1pm! I’m in the ship’s cabin with Andy Cheatle (the M&E services contractor for the Halley VI build) and we are both waiting with anticipation and expectation to set sail. It’s been a bit of a wait. We expected the ship to leave on Tuesday 22 January, but missing parts for the generators held us up.

It’s getting exciting and it will be a relief to get going, but on the process of getting to site we have to cross one of the worst waters in the world – the Southern Ocean and the Weddell Sea! It will take between 10 and 12 days to reach Halley from Cape Town (god willing) and all reports and feedback from people who have done this crossing on the Shackleton say we are in for an interesting ride. It will be a real test of our sea legs. On the one hand the route can be very choppy, and on the other hand the Shackleton ‘bobbs about alot’.

I am prepared with three months supply of Stugeron and there are more serious sea sickness patches on the ship. We are reliably informed that a great help is to understand the rhythm of the ship’s movement and so anticipate the movement. Apparently the nose of the ship leads a figure of eight. Just in case I have a secret supply of plastic bags next to me, as there is only one loo in the cabin and there are two of us sharing. We have also been advised to strap down or stow all possessions in the cabin. There is the danger that concern about sea sickness leads to a self-fulfilling prophecy and I don’t want that this to happen. I’m going to do everything I can to beat it. (But then I get motion sickness on a London bus and I am feeling a bit queasy while we are sitting here in dock).

The progress of the Shackleton can be seen on the BAS web site at:

http://www.antarctica.ac.uk/living_and_working/research_ships/rrs_ernest_shackleton/index.php

Click on the web cam option to see the latest conditions. The BAS web site also tracks progress of the build at Halley where there is also a web cam:

http://www.antarctica.ac.uk/living_and_working/research_stations/halley/halleyvi/

11.30 now – going to check what the latest is on the ship.

First entry

2008-01-25T13:01:00.000-08:00

First entry for AJ Blog
25 January 2008
Cape Town, South Africa
Sunny, +35 to 38 deg C

For the past three and a half years we have been working continuously on the Halley VI Antarctic Research Station for the British Antarctic Survey. It has certainly been a tough project from the start and we have had some really difficult hurdles to cross to help ensure the project reached this stage. Time has flown by so fast I dare not blink. The Halley VI project has been an inspirational adventure and promises to continue to be so. Most of my time has been spent developing cladding details and interfaces with glazing, steelwork, services and internal finishes to ensure that the cold and snow is kept out, the warmth is kept in and that everything fits together snugly. This has been a real adventure and a great amount of fun because, despite the fact that this is one of the life critical areas of the project, most of the design has been developed from scratch. We’ve been playing with glass reinforced plastic (GRP) cladding panels, structural GRP support systems for large glazed walls, complicated and expensive curved glazed roof lights, cladding brackets made out of silicone blocks, nanogel technology and silicone rubber gasketry just to mention a few things.

The project has also taken us all over the world in pursuit of people with cast iron nerves, willing to tackle a project like this, and supply us with all our bespoke components. The inter-modular ‘train’ connectors have been sent from Derbyshire. Much of the glazing has come from Holland and Germany. The steelwork and cladding are being made in Cape Town, South Africa. It’s been a joy to work with people who can plug into an idea and creatively help work a solution through. Now all our efforts are coming to a head and we step back from the coal face to see the wider picture of what we have contributed to: Two mock up modules at an industrial yard in Cape Town in November 2007 herald the beginning of a much bigger task to actually build Halley VI on its ice shelf home. Although we have been up and down the world, nothing feels so daunting as the prospect of heading to site in Antarctica! The contractors are currently there and incredibly busy putting it together. They are now about half way in to the first build season. Tomorrow it’s my turn to join the crew on site. We set sail with the RSS Ernest Shackleton from Cape Town heading south-west to Halley and should hopefully be there in ten days...and then comes the really exciting part of putting the base together.

My role this build season is to be resident site Architect. My deal, I think, is really good: I have the roles and responsibilities of the site Architect, pretty much as set down in the Architect’s Job Book (7th edition, December 2000, pp 213-255), but because labour resources are limited, and construction deadlines are absolutely fixed, I have to pick up a podger and help the guys put the components together. Fantastic! It brings back fond memories of working with steel crews on building sites in Gateshead when I was 18. I tell you this project has everything. I’m looking forward to the cold, the food, the atmosphere, the camaraderie, the team spirit, the isolation, the sense of urgency to complete on time, even the sea sickness – the whole experience. It’s not an opportunity that comes around every day and it’s something to talk about for ever.

In our imaginations and aspirations we have always seen Halley with bright, white, pristine snow-scapes, blue skies and biting cold winds. Even if the reality is not as idealistic as this, I can’t wait to get there and experience it.